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Lochgilphead is the 'hub' of mid-Argyll, first laid out as a planned settlement in about 1790. Much of the surrounding region was once part of the ancient Kingdom of Dalriada, established by the Irish Celts (known as the Scotti, hence Scotland) who settled here in the fifth century. Their capital was at Dunadd, just a few miles away, from where they gained ascendancy over the native Picts. Beyond Dunadd lies Kilmartin Glen - famous for its rich historical legacy. There are at least 350 ancient monuments within six miles of the village of Kilmartin, of which around 150 are prehistoric. They include burial cairns, rock carvings, and standing stones, as well as Dunadd and three more recent castles. To the south and west of Lochgilphead lies the little known area of Knapdale, complete with its highly indented shoreline and little gems like Tayvallich. Loch Sween sweeps from the Sound of Jura, coming to a halt a little south of Crinan. In doing so it leaves almost cut off a largely forested narrow peninsula running parallel to and facing the north end of Jura itself. The Tayvallich Peninsula, as it is locally known, is reached from the road junction at Bellanoch on the Crinan Canal, and runs to Keills at its tip. Tayvallich faces east onto Loch a'Bhealaich and Loch Sween beyond it, and Carsaig, facing west onto Carsaig Bay and the Sound of Jura. Thomas Telford built jetties at Carsaig, and at Keills. In Tayvallich, a line of cottages strings around a remarkably sheltered bay: so sheltered, in fact it is almost cut off by spits prejecting into the main loch. Also in Tayvallich is a small collection of services and a range of accommodation including a lochside caravan park. This is an ideal location for yachting enthusiasts, as is obvious from a glance at what is floating in the bay, or for those who really do want to get away from it all. It is worth making the extra effort to cover the remaining six miles of single track road to Keills. This is home to the Chapel of the Keills, but the main reason to come here is simply to experience the isolation. Not many people come this way. Just south of the town lies the entrance to the Crinan Canal, which provides a short-cut for boats across the head of the Kintyre Peninsula. The canal is well worth exploring, as is the village of Crinan itself. The canal took its name from the headland here where the Crinan ferry landed.